Saturday, January 12, 2013

Milan men's vogue week: Burberry and Dolce & Gabbana deliver classics and Catholics

Britain's greatest manner manufacturer might however present its menswear in Milan, still Burberry however does all it can to make Italy feel like residence.

A London skyline backdrop loomed about the catwalk and the chimes of Large Ben marked the beginning of display its chief inventive officer Christopher Bailey said was devoted to "classics". One particular Burberry- particular typical, its once -reviled examine, highlighted throughout on small cashmere scarves and in the aspect -panels of ruggedly leather-based -trimmed doctor's bags.

Standard overcoat styles including navy greatcoats, donkey jackets, topcoats, duffle jackets and Burberry's defining garment, the trench coat all featured way too. Bailey gave them a new lease of life by injecting new colors, textures and - most notably - bestial -print trims. Whether numerous men have the chutzpah to use a full leopard-print overcoat or zebra-striped Chelsea boots is debatable, but when used far more sparingly the bestial designs labored properly.

Appears from the Burberry catwalk. Pictures : Getty

Coronary heart -print shirts, semi- clear burgundy rubber raincoats and a great deal of narrowly lower fits also highlighted. Some designs have been handed the obstacle of carrying sunglasses whose lenses ended up dotted with leopard places : "You just about see Okay in them," said Bailey, "but when we offer them the lenses will be distinct."

At Dolce & Gabbana, it employed to be a supplied that the demonstrate would finish with a procession of underwear- wearing, six -foot- anything hunks flashing their 6 -packs. These days, nonetheless, the designers loaded their catwalk with spiritual prints and satisfies lower with priestly severity.

As an alternative of a traditional cast of douleur models, the Italian designers cast eighty two 'real' Sicilians of all ages and measurements in a selection fumed with Catholicism.

The Dolce & Gabbana catwalk display finale. Photo : Getty

Teens wore the free, lace-trimmed smocks and gold Virgin Mary pins of altar boys, or ambigu -fronted silk and cashmere sweatshirts studded with crystals and photographs of Christ. Pew-cushion floral tapestries adorned overcoats and jackets, and one sweater showcased the baroque facades of Sicilian churches.

Away from these enjoyably grandiose motifs, there was a brave try to reintroduce trousers worn nearly navel- substantial. These were topped with ribbed, panel knitwear that fitted their wearer's entire body like lavish armour. "This assortment is about devotion," mentioned Stefano Gabbana afterwards : "devotion to classic tailoring, devotion to proportions, and devotion to our individual style."

Dolce & Gabbana autumn/ winter season 2013 catwalk. Pics : EPA

Before in the day Ermenegildo Zegna, Italy's pre-eminent producer of high - excellent traditional men's tailoring, showed off a new silk cashmere mix in a series of delicately patterned gray satisfies and overcoats. It made a brave pitch for the return of cummerbund, boldly offered its ambigu -breasted satisfies worn open up at the jacket, and showcased some exceptionally mild - and inevitably extremely costly - alpaca overcoats.


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