Paris Style Month started with what several regarded as a " encounter -off" amongst designers Hedi Slimane and Raf Simons, equally of whom have been demonstrating their first - ever all set -to- dress in collections for Saint Laurent and Dior, respectively. At 1st, their purported rivalry seemed far more like a dubious conflict ginned up by the style press &mdash we are generally hungering for additional drama, soon after all &mdash but as the month unfolded and the evaluations arrived in, the comparisons came into sharper concentration. Even though no critics specifically pitted the two displays against just about every other, Slimane tweeted his belief that the Times's Cathy Horyn had supplied Dior preferential treatment. On the other hand, she wasn't the only journalist who had some misgivings about his collection. Here is a roundup of main critics' quotes for both equally reveals see how the two designers stacked up towards every single oth er.
Suzy Menkes, the IHT
On Saint Laurent: "Mr. Slimane&rsquos very own heritage appeared in the ultra-skinny pants worn with spencer, or cropped, jackets. Floor -sweeping attire seemed considerably less selected. They gave a hippie de luxe (but not quite luxurious ample ) effect to the collection, besides for a single best evening gown with cascading frills... Alternatives to pants were uncomfortable : a coat dress undulating across the thighs at the front and sweeping the floor at the back again... Perhaps Mr. Slimane can use the YSL codes following season to move forward from homage to some thing additional vibrant.
On Dior: "His Dior display for summertime 2013 was a triumph of 21st-century modernism, with all the codes of purity and simplicity challenged... Aside from the excellence of the unique principles and the way that they have been respectful of ladies &rsquos bodies and unbiased attitudes, this was a single of th e very best regenerations of the spirit of a heritage manufacturer noticed on the runway given that Karl Lagerfeld very first reinterpreted Chanel just about 30 several years in the past."
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